GYOTAKU SUSHI
7215B 3RD AVE.
BAY RIDGE
(718) 833-8828
gyotakusushi.com

With the proliferation of sushi restaurants in New York, how does one restaurant distinguish itself? It was this question that brought us to the newest restaurant in Bay Ridge, Gyotaku Sushi.

Opened in mid-2009 by owners Ming and Chris, the eatery occupies the space formerly known as the Chip Shop between 72nd and 73rd streets. This stretch of restaurant real estate is unique in that it is a veritable United Nations of food, ranging from Poland to Thailand.

The name Gyotaku is derived from the ancient art of creating colorful fish prints. Chris and Ming point out that their aim is also to produce colorful and artful plates of fish for their diners. They combine their almost 12 years of experience with fresh and unique ingredients to transform ordinary into a work of art.

The focus of the cuisine is fusion Japanese. Gyotaku has taken Americanized sushi and transformed the food into something they claim cannot be found even in Japan. Many of the dishes we sampled were several notches up the “wow� scale.

Although soup does not pop into your head at a Japanese restaurant, you will be missing something here if you pass it by. Our party sampled the Tomato and Basil soup and the Cream Mushroom soup. Both had a creamy, delicate texture and aroma.

The salads also proved to be unique. Sashimi salad consists of assorted diced fish over greens. Tuna and avocado salad is served with the market’s freshest selections. All salads are accompanied by a delicious choice of dressings, our favorite being the honey-poppy wasabi dressing.

In our mind, the starters and appetizers here really steal the show. This is where fusion shows off. Squid, mango, arctic clam and cucumber is combined to make a mouth watering dish called SMAC. In another dish, white fish, octopus and shrimp cook in citric juices to produce a seafood ceviche. Baked salmon and snow crab combine to make delicious light puffs. The hands-down favorite was the Tuna taco filled with tuna and greens and topped with a honey-wasabi sauce. These tasty tacos received the “We Have to Have These Again� Award.

As for entrees, the diner can choose many paths. Traditional entrees include teriyakis, udons and tempuras. Different entrees for this setting include cajun blackened N.Y. strip steak with its charcoal coating and tender, rare inside. A dollop of beet butter, wasabi mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables round out the dish. This beef could compete with those of the classic steak houses.

Even with all this fusion, you should try a few rolls and sashimi. We found the sashimi to be the freshest and most flavorful of recent memory. Icy cold, delicate flavor and melt-in-our-mouth texture define the fish. The special rolls are prepared with the fusion flair and have such selections as dynamite, green lady, and fish and chip maki, a nod to the former occupants of this space.

For the accomplished Japanese diner or a diner who wants to experience a fusion of cuisines, Gyotaku should be on your list. The owners strive to blend fresh ingredients and cooking prowess to produce food that is top notch while still affordable. Modern Japanese with a New York attitude may be the best way to describe this restaurant.

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